From: HXTour [#1]
17 May 2018
To: ALL
The club I'm struggling with right now is driver. I play DG S300 in my irons and wedges and do just fine with them The only graphite shaft in the bag is Driver, playing a Cally Bertha 815 with a VooDoo SVS7 at 44.25" and SW at D2.
I even made a switch back to some old school TM V-Steel FWs with the DG Lite steel shaft and I'm killing them. The weight is really helping with tempo and transition.
Some of my problems are swing related. I have a difficult time hitting UP on driver and tend to slide toward target and hit low crappy tee shots. When it all comes together, I can hit driver very nice...I used to have this issue with my FWs as well...until I moved to these shorter, heavier steel shafts. I feel there is a correlation (I understand you don't try to hit up on FWs, but I digress)
I will continue to work on my swing. In the meantime, do you have any equipment suggestions that might be helpful? Even heavier graphite? Focus on maybe increasing swingweight instead of static weight?
I don't know how steel in driver would work nowadays and I don't see any steel wood shaft options very much if at all anymore.
Not asking for a miracle here, just any thoughts you have (other than just putting driver away and hit 3W, as when I hit driver properly it goes much farther)
Reply
From: jvincent [#2]
17 May 2018
To: HXTour [#1] 17 May 2018
My two cents, since I struggle with this as well.
Don't try to hit up on the driver. Tee it lower and just put a normal swing on it. You might lose a bit of distance compared to your best theoretical drive, but overall you'll be more consistent.Reply
From: Problem Golfer (DON M) [#3]
17 May 2018
To: jvincent [#2] 17 May 2018
I think that is the correct answer.Reply
From: Obiwan [#4]
17 May 2018
To: HXTour [#1] 17 May 2018
Not a equipment suggestion, but you said you tend to slide toward the target. For irons, that can work in hitting them lower. But can be death for the driver.
Try hitting against a "firm" left side. That is, in the downswing concentrate on planting the left leg like it's rooted in the ground. This will also help you hit at least level, if not up on the ball.
Reply
From: Cwebb [#5]
17 May 2018
To: HXTour [#1] 17 May 2018
I agree with the idea of not "trying" to hit down on your driver. Some of the best total drivers in the world actually hit slightly down on the driver. I think it's harder for some players to be consistent and accurate when they feel the need to "manufacture" a driver angle of attack that is very very different than any other club.
For equipment testing, you could get a roll of high density lead tape and put a long strip down the under side of your driver shaft....to see if a simulated heavier shaft helps you at all. A 10" strip of the "high density" stuff equals about 10 grams. 1" = 1g. Could easily add at least 15g or more on your driver. If it works and you like it, just play with it that way.
In addition, I would do detailed impact pattern testing to see where exactly on the face you tend strike most of your drives. A cheap can of foot powder spray works perfect. Wipe it off with a towel after a few shots and put a clean layer on, so you can continue to see exactly where each strike is....
This will also help you greatly to dial in your tee height, if that presents itself as an issue.
If nothing works, maybe consider exploring a "2 wood" or "mini-driver" concept....since you are consistent with fairway woods. Some players, for whatever reason, just play better with a smaller head size....especially those who tend to have a steeper angle of attack
Reply
From: Misanthrope (PHIL75070) [#6]
17 May 2018
To: HXTour [#1] 18 May 2018
Where do you position the ball in your stance with the driver? Maybe experience moving it up little by little. If too far back it is very difficult to hit "up" on the ball with the driver. Positioned properly that should occur almost automatically.Reply
From: Lets Go! 7 Rings for TB12 (LUVPINGS) [#7]
17 May 2018
To: HXTour [#1] 18 May 2018
Given how easy it is to swap shafts, why not give steel a try? Who cares what others are using.Reply
From: 2scratch [#8]
17 May 2018
To: HXTour [#1] 18 May 2018
Get some lead tape. Weigh out 20 grams. Cut into three strips. Wind one piece below grip, one half way down the shaft and one about 4” from ferrule. This will “simulate” a heavier shaft.Reply
From: HXTour [#9]
18 May 2018
To: Misanthrope (PHIL75070) [#6] 18 May 2018
I play the ball pretty forward in my stance. I do fight getting open shoulders at setup when I move it too far forward and need to adjust.Reply
From: Mike (DESMOND) [#10]
18 May 2018
To: HXTour [#1] 18 May 2018
Seriously, guys? Some of the answers.
I don't think you hit up on driver -- you set yourself up at address so you have a positive AOA - don't change your swing, change your setup.
Steel? No.
Reply
From: Bogeydog [#11]
18 May 2018
To: HXTour [#1] 18 May 2018
Seriously, as a former slider.
You need to move your left butt cheek back on the downswing. It needs to offset the force of the swing.
If you drew a circle around yourself and think of the ball at 12:00 and the target at 9:00, your zipper needs to move to 7:00.Reply
From: Golfireguy6 [#12]
20 May 2018
To: HXTour [#1] 21 May 2018
I struggled with the driver slide until I heard a tip from Justin Thomas . He said one of his major swing keys with the driver was to keep his rear foot ( right foot for a RH golfer ) on the ground and stable as long as possible .
Obviously , the foot eventually comes off the ground , but keeping it down as long as you can will reduce the likelihood of a premature weight transfer /slide .
Hope it helps -- K. The club I'm struggling with right now is driver. I play DG S300 in my irons and wedges and do just fine with them The only graphite shaft in the bag is Driver, playing a Cally Bertha 815 with a VooDoo SVS7 at 44.25" and SW at D2.
I even made a switch back to some old school TM V-Steel FWs with the DG Lite steel shaft and I'm killing them. The weight is really helping with tempo and transition.
Some of my problems are swing related. I have a difficult time hitting UP on driver and tend to slide toward target and hit low crappy tee shots. When it all comes together, I can hit driver very nice...I used to have this issue with my FWs as well...until I moved to these shorter, heavier steel shafts. I feel there is a correlation (I understand you don't try to hit up on FWs, but I digress)
I will continue to work on my swing. In the meantime, do you have any equipment suggestions that might be helpful? Even heavier graphite? Focus on maybe increasing swingweight instead of static weight?
I don't know how steel in driver would work nowadays and I don't see any steel wood shaft options very much if at all anymore.
Not asking for a miracle here, just any thoughts you have (other than just putting driver away and hit 3W, as when I hit driver properly it goes much farther)
Reply
From: HTG (HOUTEXGOLFER) [#13]
20 May 2018
To: HXTour [#1] 21 May 2018
This might work for you, practicing with your feet together, as demonstrated in this short video:
https://www.golfchannel.com/video/swingfix-feet-together-drill/
Especially if you think you are sliding forward. I had this exact problem some years ago and used the "feet together" swing to help find the cure. For a time I even played that way, just hitting driver with my feet together. Then with my heels about 6 inches apart. You can't slide forward, if you do you'll fall down. After a while your body learns the new technique and you eventually can work back to a normal stance and still avoid sliding forward in the downswing.
Other explanations for the same thing:
https://progolfnow.com/2016/08/01/golf-tip-practice-feet-together-distance/
http://golf-info-guide.com/golf-tips/the-golf-swing/best-golf-drill-ever-feet-together-instills-balance-rhythm/Reply
Reply to All